What Ingredients in Cosmetics Cause Acne
Comedogenic is an important word to know when dealing with acne and cosmetic products. Its definition is "tending to produce or aggravate acne". Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will serve to aggravate your acne problems.
For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic ingredients, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of ingredients, throw it out.
Acne Formation
Our skin's sebum is complex, made of six or seven principal ingredients, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are broken down on the surface of the skin by bacteria to liberate fatty acids, which cause acne episodes in genetically predisposed families. As we will see, many cosmetics also contain these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the production of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.
Before we discuss cosmetic ingredients, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could be under the impression that sebum is vital to our skin's health. However, there is no evidence to back up that idea. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is simply a vestige whose function has been lost in the process of evolution.
Sebum does not prevent wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a consequence of accumulated sun damage, and no moisturizer in the world is capable of reversing the natural, aging process.
Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments
Three main categories of offending ingredients
Lanolins Among cosmetics ingredients, the most commonly used is lanolin. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil taken from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, tend to aggravate some acne in the skin of individuals with inherited tendency towards acne. Many lanolin derivatives commonly being used in cosmetics are damaging to acne-prone people, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially chemical lanolins are able to permeate skin pores even better than biological lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.
Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins
One of the strongest products is a penetrating oil called isopropyl myristate. It is the main component in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate aids cosmetics go on more smoothly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so aggressive that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually move over the top, down the borders and onto the table top. There are many chemicals analogous to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: octyl sterate, decyl oleate, putty sterate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentonate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal, myristyl myristate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.
Drugs As Acne Treatments
Maybe one the most disturbing recent findings about acne-producing potential is the red tints used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not unexpected considering they are coal tar derivatives. Ever since doctors realized that acne was an occupational illness of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been recognized for its acne-causing properties. An adequate substitute for red color is carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.
Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. Take a moment and read product labels. This simple action can keep your skin beautiful and healthy.
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Published December 24th, 2007
